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Athens has proved itself a thoroughly 21st-century city. Mindful of the immensity of its past but determined not to become a heritage theme park, the city continues to evolve: a new metro system, revamped museums, regenerated residential areas, and energized bars, including the nightlife and arts scenes that coexist with some of the world's most treasured antiquities. Written and researched by Athens residents, this thorough guide helps visitors make the most of the city's wonders: western civilization's most influential monuments, the beautiful beaches within easy reach of town, restaurants and cafes from traditional "taverna" to haute haunt, and accommodations both funky and fabulous.